I think I’m a little like “plaid gone wild” lately...lol!!! I’m loving the color combo of red, claret (burgundy) and black. I used worsted weight yarn to make my grandson, Luke, a pair of 3T plaid pajamas. I think he looks super cute and the pants turned out really well.
Now, if you are intimidated with trying plaid - don't be. It's actually much easier than you even realize. It's just a matter of working with 2 colors (black and claret) in a round/row, and then dropping the black yarn for the next round/row and picking up red yarn to work with the claret. And, you just continue this simple pattern back and forth with whatever you are making. So, pick up hook and yarn and give plaid a try - you are going to love the results.
To date, I only have the pattern for the one size - 3T. I may make a few more sizes later on...
For other sizes:
You can adjust the starting number of chains to get the waist size you need. Just keep in mind that you need to work in multiples of 6 to make the plaid pattern work.
Size: 3T
Now, if you are intimidated with trying plaid - don't be. It's actually much easier than you even realize. It's just a matter of working with 2 colors (black and claret) in a round/row, and then dropping the black yarn for the next round/row and picking up red yarn to work with the claret. And, you just continue this simple pattern back and forth with whatever you are making. So, pick up hook and yarn and give plaid a try - you are going to love the results.
To date, I only have the pattern for the one size - 3T. I may make a few more sizes later on...
For other sizes:
You can adjust the starting number of chains to get the waist size you need. Just keep in mind that you need to work in multiples of 6 to make the plaid pattern work.
Buffalo Plaid Pajamas Pattern
Size: 3T
Gauge: 6 DC st x 3 rows = 2"
Materials:
--6.0mm hook
--1 skein each of Red Heart Super Saver yarn in Cherry Red, Black and Claret
--tapestry needle for weaving
U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch: chain
Sl st: slip stitch
St: stitch(es)
DC: double crochet
FPDC: front post double crochet
BPDC: back post double crochet
Rep: repeat
FO: fasten off
Plaid Stitch:
1. With the first round of plaid pattern, we will be working with the black and claret yarns. Once the first row is complete, we will just move the black yarn behind the hook and leave it (don't cut the yarn; just let it rest to the side until we pick it up again.
2. For the second round of plaid pattern, we will be working with claret and red yarns. Claret will be worked into the previous rounds' stitches that are black; red will be worked into the previous rounds' stitches that are claret. Once round is completed, you will pick black yarn back up and leave red yarn behind the hook to the side.
Claret is used on every round. You will rotate between using black or red with the claret yarn.
Directions:
First, we are going to be making the waistband. My grandson, Luke, has a 21" round waist.
1. With black yarn, Ch60. Sl st join to first ch to form ring, without twisting. Ch3 (counts as first DC stitch). DC in each remaining ch around. Sl st join to the top of Ch3. (60)
2. Ch3 (counts as first FPDC stitch), BPDC around next post st. *FPDC, then BPDC.* Rep from * to * around. Sl st join to the top of Ch3. (60)
3-4. Rep #2. Sl st join to first st. (60)
Now, we are ready to start working the plaid pattern. You will be working with 2 yarn colors in each round. As you work the round, you will be rotating between the 2 colors, so you will want to carry over the yarn.
5. With black yarn, Ch3 (counts as first DC stitch). DC in each of the next 2 st. Before completing the 2nd stitch, join claret yarn and complete stitch. Now, with claret yarn, DC in the next 3 st. Before completing the last st, switch back to the black yarn and complete stitch. Continue doing this all the way around. Sl st join claret yarn to the top of the Ch3. Set black yarn behind the hook to the side since you will not use it in the next round. (60)
6. With claret yarn, Ch3 (counts as first DC stitch). DC in each of the next 2 st. Before completing the 2nd stitch, join red yarn and complete stitch. Now, with red yarn, DC in the next 3 st. Before completing the last st, switch back to claret yarn and complete stitch. Continue doing this all the way around. Sl st join to the top of the Ch3. Set red yarn behind the hook to the side since you will not be using it in the next round. Pick black yarn back up. (60)
7-12. Rep #5 and #6. (60)
Forming the first leg:
13. Rep #5, but only complete 30 stitches. Sl st join to the top of Ch3. (30)
14. Rep #6, but only complete 30 stitches. Sl st join to the top of Ch3. (30)
15-32. Rep #13 and #14. (30)
33. With black yarn, Ch3 (counts as first DC st). Then continue with 1 DC in each st around. Sl st join to the top of the Ch3. (30)
34. Ch3 (counts as first FPDC st), then BPDC. FPDC, BPDC. Rep around. Sl st join to the top of the Ch3. (30)
35. Rep #34. Sl st join to the top of the Ch3. FO and weave ends.
Forming the second leg:
Join yarn in the crotch area of an un-worked stitched in round 13 and rep as above from #13-35 to complete the second leg. Once you complete the second leg, you will need to use your tapestry needle and a small piece of yarn to whipstitch any center crotch opening. Mine was very small.
Drawstring (optional):
1. With black yarn, Ch101. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across. FO. With tapestry needle, weave drawstring through the first row of the waistband.
2. To the ends, make a small pompom by wrapping around 3 fingers 30 times. Tie in a double knot, trim with scissors and add to each end of the drawstring.
Happy Crocheting...
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