Fox Apron

I'm in love with foxes - OR, it could simply just be the yarn colors that I'm fascinated with.  Either way, I know I do a lot of FOX projects, but, I'm okay with that...lol.

My newest FOX project is this super cute, Fox Apron - use in the kitchen, play dress up or wear as a costume.  However or wherever/whenever you choose to wear this, you are sure to look sly and foxy...

If you would like the PDF, Ad-Free version of this pattern, it is listed in my ETSY Shop for $1.99.  Any support is greatly appreciated.  Here is the LINK to my Etsy Shop...

Fox Apron Pattern

Size:  26" long

Gauge:  6 HDC stitches x 5 rows = 2"

Materials:
—6.5mm hook
—3.0mm hook (for inner ear portion)
—(1) skein each of "I Love This Yarn" (Hobby Lobby) in Terra Cotta, Black and White
—tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
Sl st:  slip stitch
St:  stitch(es)
SC:  single crochet
SC2tog:  single crochet 2 stitches together
SC3tog:  single crochet 3 stitches together
HDC:  half double crochet
BLO:  back loops only
FLO:  front loops only
Rep:  repeat
Sk:  skip
FO:  fasten off

Directions:
The apron is worked from the top, down.
1.  With Terra Cotta, Ch 26.  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across OR 25FHDC.  Ch1 and turn.  (25)
2-4.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (25)
5.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 23 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (27)
6.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 25 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (29)
7.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 27 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (31)
8-12.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (31)
13.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 29 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (33)
14.   2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 31 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (35)
15.   2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 33 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (37)
16.   2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 35 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (39)
17.   2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 37 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (41)
18.   2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 39 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (43)
19.   2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 41 st, 2 HDC in last st.  FO and weave ends.  (45)
20.  Join White yarn and Ch1.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
21-27.  1 HDC in each st across.  At the end of Row 27, FO White yarn and weave ends.  Join black yarn.  (45)
28.  With Black yarn, 1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
29-34.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  At the end of Row 34, FO Black yarn and weave ends.  Join Terra Cotta yarn.  (45)
35.  With Terra Cotta yarn, 1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
36-47.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  At the end of Row 47, FO Terra Cotta yarn and weave ends.  (45)

— SPECIAL NOTE:  if you want your apron to be longer than 26”, then continue with additional rows using the Terra Cotta yarn — before moving on with Row 48...

48.  Work this Row in BLO.  With Black yarn and BLO, 1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
49-62.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  At the end of Row 62, FO and weave ends.  (45)

63.  With Terra Cotta yarn, go back and join in the FLO only of Row 48.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
64.  *1 SC in the first st, Sk next st, 5 HDC in the next st, Sk next st.* Rep from * to * across.  Ch1 and turn.
65-70.  Rep #64 across.  At the end of Row 70, FO and weave ends.

Top Border and Neck Strap:

1.  Join Terra Cotta in the first st of Row 1 with a sl st and Ch1.  HDC in same st and into the next 9 st.  Sl st into the next 5 st.  HDC in each of the last 10 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (20 HDC and 5 sl st)
2-3.  Rep #1.
Neck Strap:
4.   HDC in the first 3 st.  Ch1 and turn.
5-35.  Rep #4.  At the end of Row 34, FO and leave a tail to attach to opposite side to make your neck strap.  Prior to joining, make sure the number of rows is enough to comfortably fit around your neck.

 

 

Eyes (make 2):

1.  With Black yarn, 6 HDC into MR.  Sl st join to first st and FO.  Leave tail for attaching.  (6)

Nose:
1.  With Black yarn, 6 HDC into MR.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (6)
2.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next st.  Rep across.  Sl st join to first st.  FO and leave a tail for attaching.  (9)

Outer Ears (make 2):
1.  With Terra Cotta, Ch6.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (5)
2.  SC across.  Ch1 and turn.  (5)
3.  SC2tog, 1 SC in next st, SC2tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
4.  SC across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
5.  SC3tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (1)
6.  1 SC.  FO and weave ends.  (1)
7.  Join black yarn in any stitch with sl st and ch1.  SC around ear.  Sl st join to first st and FO.  Leave a tail for attaching.

Inner Ear (make 2):
1.  With White yarn and 3.0mm hook, Ch4.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
2.  SC across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
3.  SC3tog.  FO and leave tail to attach to Outer Ear.  (1)

 

Waist Straps (make one on each side):
1.  Join Black yarn at the end of Row 28 with a sl st and Ch1.  HDC in same st.  HDC in the next 6 end stitches.
2-35.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  At the end of Row 35, FO and weave ends. 

Repeat on opposite side.  For the straps, make sure the straps are long enough to secure into a bow around the waist.  You may need to add or reduce the number of rows you need.

Assembly:
1.  Attach Inner Ear to Outer Ear's center.  Then attach each ear to the front of the neck straps on each side.
2.  Attach nose in the center at Rows 18-20.
3.  Attach eyes at Rows 14-15 (see my pics for help with placement).
Hope ya'll will enjoy this Fox Apron as much as I enjoyed designing it!!!

Happy Crocheting...

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work
--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog

Basketball in a Hoop Costume

Basketball has always been my favorite sport. I love it as a fan and a participator. Hubby and I love watching college basketball, especially the UK Wildcats and WV Mountaineers.

My grandson had dismantled (aka tore up...lol) one of those stick up basketball hoops for inside use. I think it may have come from the Dollar Tree or Dollar General Store ($1-$2).  The hoop frame measures approximately 9 1/2" in diameter.  Instead of tossing in the trash, I decided to re-purpose it by making it into a usable costume idea for toddlers and making it functional again as a basketball hoop.

"Basketball in a Hoop" Toddler Costume

Size:  The hoop's diameter is approximately 9 1/2" and will fit most toddlers as a costume

Gauge:  Is not important

Materials:
For the Hat and Hoop Costume:
--6.0mm hook
--#4 worsted weight yarn in white, orange and brown (I used ILTY and Crafter's Secret)
--(1) plastic hoop
--tapestry needle for weaving

For the Basketball:
--4.5mm hook
--#4 worsted weight yarn in orange and brown
--(2) small eyes (optional); you could make crocheted eyes
--Polyfil
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
Sl st:  slip stitch
St:  stitch(es)
SC:  single crochet
HDC:  half double crochet
SC2tog:  single crochet 2 stitches together (creates a decrease)
Rep:  repeat
Sk:  skip
MR:  magic ring
FO:  fasten off

Directions:
Hat:

• There are 2 ways you can work this hat - 1.) in the round; if so, use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning and ending stitch and move the stitch marker up as you start each new round; or 2.) slip stitch join to the first stitch and chain 1.
• To altar the overall size of your hat, you will need to know the diameter.  To find this, you will first use a tape measure around a child, teen or adult's head.  Now, divide this number by 3.14.  This will give you the diameter of your circle you will need to achieve before you stop with increase rounds and start working repeat rounds. 

1.  With 6.0mm hook and orange yarn, 10 HDC into MR.  (10)
Increase Rounds:
2.  2 HDC in each st around.  (20)
3.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next st.  Rep around.  (30)
4.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 2 st.  Rep around.  (40)
5.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 3 st.  Rep around.  (50)
6.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 4 st.  Rep around.  (60)
Repeat Rounds:
7-16.  1 HDC in each st around.  At the end of Round 16, FO orange yarn and weave ends.  (60)
17.  With brown yarn, sl st join into any st of Round 16 and Ch1.  SC in same st and each st around.  Sl st join and FO.  Weave ends.  (60)

Stripes (make 3):
1.  Leave a starting tail.  With 6.0mm hook and brown yarn, Ch50.  FO and leave a long tail for attaching to the hat.

Assembly:
1.  See pics for help with placement of stripes:  1 is middle center and the 2 remaining stripes are placed to the left and to the right of the center stripe.  I placed each of mine 5 stitches over on each side from the center with each touching Round 6.

Hoop:

1.  With a 6.0mm hook, plastic hoop and white yarn, you will want to join yarn around hoop and work 56 SC stitches.  I put 3 SC stitches at the beginning, and then 10 SC between each of the notches on the hoop and then 3 SC at the end.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (56)
2.   SC in first st.  Ch9, Sk 3 st.  SC in next st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (14 SC and 14 Ch9)
3-9.  Rep #2.
10.  Same as #2, except you will Ch7 (not Ch9).
11-12.  Rep #10.  At the end of Round 12, FO and weave ends.

Hoop Straps (make 2):
1.  With 6.0mm hook and white yarn, I chained 75.  FO and left a tail to attach to the side of the hoop.
Attach the second strap to the opposite side of the hoop.  Make sure to really secure the straps.  
2.  The straps can either be left visible and tied in a bow around the neck or you can weave under the shirt and then tie in a bow around the heck.  
  

Basketball:
Follow same principle as hat for working in the round; see above note:

1.  With 4.5mm hook and orange yarn, 6 SC into MR.  (6)
2.  2 SC in each st around.  (12)
3.  2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next st.  Rep around.  (18)
4.  2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next 2 st.  Rep around.  (24)
5.  2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next 3 st.  Rep around.  (30)
6-10.  1 SC in each st around.  (30)
11.  SC2tog, 1 SC in next 3 st.  Rep around.  (24)
12.  SC2tog, 1 SC in next 2 st.  Rep around.  (18)
13.  SC2tog, 1 SC in next st.  Rep around.  (12)

If using safety eyes, add them now at Round 10, with 3 stitch spaces between them.  Stuff with polyfil.

14.  SC2tog.  Rep around.  FO and leave a tail for closing up last 6 stitches.  (6)

Assembly:
1.  Using the tail, weave yarn in and out of the last 6 stitches and pull to close up opening.
2.  I used brown yarn and added a smile 3 rows down from the eyes.
3.  For the stripes, I used my tapestry needle and brown yarn and just embroidered around the center of the ball for the center stripe and then worked a circular stripe for each side 4 stitches over from the center on each side.

Frayed Hair:
1.  I used the tapestry needle to weave and knot yarn at the top of the ball.
2.  I then used the needle to fray the yarn.
3.  I made 5 for the top of my ball.

This is a super cute, quick and simple project to make.  The hat and hoop can be worn as a costume for Halloween (or dress-up) with the ball to carry as an accessory.  AND, then, afterwards, can be used to play ball indoors during the coming winter months...

Inexpensive costume with a little versatility...I hope ya'll will enjoy this.

 Happy Crocheting...

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work
--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog

My Little Pony - Twilight Costume

Okay, my granddaughter, Arielle, loves watching “My Little Pony” and Twilight is her favorite pony. So, I’ve started on a costume set for her.

The sizes I’m working on will comfortably fit 3T - 4T size; and depending on size of toddler could possibly fit a 2T and 5T.

To date, I have the Top and Skirt completed.  I still need to finish up making the tail on a belt, wings, a mask, and maybe wrist gloves.,.

Here’s a few pictures to share.  As soon as I get this ensemble completed, I will share the pattern with you all...

My Little Pony - Twilight Costume

I made braids to intertwine on the sides to remind you of a pony’s mane...

The cutie mark is on the top.  The sleeves are open, tied with yarn. 

I’m loving this pattern and I hope you all will too...AS soon as I’ve got it completed I will add details...

Happy Crocheting...

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work 

--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog

Knight's Tunic Top

In follow-up to the Knight's Sword and Chainmail Hat/Helmet I designed, I decided to create this Knight's Tunic Top for my grandson, Jacob.  What little boy doesn't want to be a Knight?  I know I love watching shows/movies about times of past with knights and kings.

This pattern was designed to be beginner-friendly for a crochet newbie, using Red Heart Super Saver yarn and a 6.0mm hook.

Knight's Tunic Top

Size:  Youth Small/Medium

Materials:

--4.0 (for the Fleur-de-lis) and 6.0mm hooks 

--Red Heart Super Saver yarn in Navy (2 skeins) and white (1 skein)

--4 small buttons for side flaps

--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:

Ch:  chain

St:  stitch(es)

Sl st:  slip stitch

SC:  single crochet

HDC:  half double crochet 

HDC2tog:  half double crochet 2 stitches together

FHDC:  foundation half double crochet

Rep:  repeat

Sk:  skip

FO:  fasten off 

Picot:  Chain 3 and slip stitch into the first chain

Directions:

The tunic is made in one piece, a rectangular-shape.  The neck opening is made at the halfway mark between the front and back.  Then, you make 4 side flaps and attach (2 flaps to each side).

Tunic:
1.  With Navy yarn and 6.0mm hook, I started with FHDC 45.  Or, you could chain 46, HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn. (45)
 2.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
3-43.  Rep #2.
44.  1 HDC in each of the first 9 st.  Ch27, Sk 27, 1 HDC in each of the last 9 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (18 HDC, 27 Ch)
45.  1 HDC in each of the first 9 st.  27 HDC in the ch space.  1 HDC in each of the last 9 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
46-87.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  At the end of Row 87, FO and weave ends.

Border:
1.  With white yarn, join in any st and Ch1.  HDC in same st.  HDC evenly around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.
2.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join and FO.  Re-join Navy yarn.
3.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.
4.  Rep #3.  FO and weave ends.

Bottom Tabs:
The bottom tabs are made for the front panel and the back panel.  4 tabs on each side.

1.  Join Navy yarn in first st of the first row and Ch1.  HDC in same st and into the next 7 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)
2-6.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  After you complete the 6th Row, FO and weave ends.  (8)

Rep steps 1-6 evenly across the bottom to make 4 tabs.  Then, rep on the back side, using the last row you made.


Side Flaps (make 4):
1.  With Navy yarn and 6.0mm hook, Ch4.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
2-11.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
12.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and leave a tail for attaching 1 side to the side back panel.

Emblem:
1.  With White yarn and 6.0mm hook, Ch3.  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and next ch.  Ch1 and turn.  (2)
2.  2 HDC in each st.  Ch1 and turn.  (4)
3.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 2 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (6)
4.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 4 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)
5.   2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 6 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)
6.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 8 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (12)
7.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 10 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (14)
8.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 12 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (16)
9-11.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (16)
12.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 12 st, HDC2tog.  FO and weave ends.  (14)
13.  With Navy yarn, join yarn and Ch1.  SC in same st.  SC evenly around.  FO and leave a long tail for attaching.

Fleur-di-lis:
Vertical Portion:
1.  With Navy yarn and 4.0mm hook, Ch15.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and into each of the next 10 ch.  Picot.  1 SC in each of the next 2 ch.  3 SC in last ch.  Rotate and work on the opposite side of the base chain.  1 SC in each of the first 3 ch.  Picot.  1 SC in each of the next 9 ch.  2 SC in last ch.  FO and leave a long tail for attaching to the emblem.

For the Side:
1.  Ch7.  1 SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Picot.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail to attach on the side of the Vertical Portion.

Rep for the second side.

Neckline Border:
1.  With White yarn and 6.0mm hook, I joined yarn with a sl st and Ch1 in the back right corner.  HDC in same st and evenly across the back portion.  At the corner, HDC2tog, then HDC across the front.  HDC2tog at the corner.  Continue to HDC until the last st and then sl st join to the first st and Ch1.
2.   HDC in each st across the back portion.  At the corner, HDC2tog, then HDC in each st across.  HDC2tog in the corner.  Continue to HDC until the last st and then sl st join to the first st and FO.  Weave ends.
3.  I used the tapestry needle and a piece of white yarn, and weaved it in and out of the center, front HDC st to create a dip (V).  FO and weaved ends.

Assembly:
1.  Attach 2 buttons evenly spaced out on the front sides of the tunic for side flap closure
2.  Attach the Fleur-di-lis to the emblem.  Then attach emblem to front center of the tunic.

To adjust size:
1.  For a 3T-4T size, start with a FHDC 30 or Ch31 and HDC across.  (30)
2-30.  1 HDC in each st across.  (30)
31.  1 HDC in each of the first 10 st.  Ch10, Sk 10, 1 HDC in each of the last 10 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (20 HDC, 10 Ch)
32.  1 HDC in each of the first 10 st.  10 HDC in the ch space.  1 HDC in each of the last 10 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (30)
33-62.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  At the end of Row 63 FO and weave ends.  (30)

Complete remainder of Tunic same as above.

Please note:
1.  This pattern has not been tested.  It was designed and made by me for my grandchildren.
2.  As a good rule of thumb, please check for size as you go to make sure you get the measurement you want for your child.
3.  If you have any questions, please feel free to comment or email me and I would be glad to help in any way that I can.

Enjoy!!!

Happy Crocheting 

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work

--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog

Knight's Sword

Hitting the beach one weekend and then the mountains the following weekend has motivated and regenerated my creativity!!!  I have been playing around with several different projects with the warmer weather in full force here in North Carolina.  My brain has been all over the place - from one spectrum to the other with projects I've started...lol.  So, I will be getting my blog updated with all the new patterns I've already completed, as well as, update blog posts that I may not have added the pattern(s) to yet.

Today, I want to share my pattern for a "Knight's Sword."  I made this to compliment the Knight's Chainmail Hat/Helmet that I added yesterday.  Here is the LINK for this pattern:

Chainmail Helmet 

I plan to make a few additional items to complete my "Knight" collection.  Everything will be made and sized for my 7-year-old grandson, Jacob.  He wants a complete costume made - so this will be a great collection to have for Halloween, birthday parties or to just play dress-up around the house.  

Knight's Sword

Knight's Sword Pattern

Size:  approx 18" long

Gauge:  I did not gauge

Materials:

--5.0mm hook

--#4 worsted weight yarn in your color(s) of choice (I used grey and light brown)

--1 sheet of plastic canvas

--small amount of polyfil

--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:

Ch:  chain

St:  stitch(es)

Sl st:  slip stitch

HDC:  half double crochet

HDC2tog:  half double crochet 2 stitches together (creates a decrease)

FO:  fasten off

Directions:

This pattern is made using double-stranded yarn.  Just simply hold 2 strands together while you work the pattern.

The Blade/Hilt is made in one piece.  You will need to repeat the pattern 2 times and then whipstitch the 2 pieces together to make the sword.

1.  Starting with grey yarn, double-stranded, Ch3.  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and next ch.  Ch1 and turn.  (2)

2.  2 HDC in each st.  Ch1 and turn.  (4)

3.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (6)

4.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in each of the next 4 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)

5.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in each of the next 6 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)

6.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (12)

7-10.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (12)

11.   HDC2tog, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 st, HDC2tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)

12-29.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)

30.  1 HDC in each st across.  FO and weave ends.  

31.  Before joining your second color to Row 30 to make the hilt, you will first make a Ch5.  1 HDC in the 2nd ch from the hook.  1 HDC in each of the next 3 ch.  Now, sl st join 2nd color to the last stitch of Row 30 on the right end.  1 HDC in same st.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch5.  1 HDC in 2nd ch from the hook.  1 HDC in each of the next 3 ch.  Turn.  Sl st back across the 4 HDC st you just made.  Ch1 and turn.  (18)

32.  1 HDC in each of the first 14 st.  Now, before continuing with the last 4 HDC st across, you will want to turn up the first 4 HDC st you made in Row 31 and work the remaining HDC st across into the base ch you made in Row 31.  Ch1 and turn.  (18)

33.  1 HDC in each st across.  Do not Ch1 and turn.  (18)

34.  Sl st in the first 5 st.  Ch1.  HDC in the next 8 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)

35-41.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)

42.  1 HDC in each st across.  FO and leave a long tail.  

Repeat to make 2nd piece.  

Now, you will want to cut a piece of plastic canvas in the shape of the blade portion.  Cut it smaller than the actual crocheted piece since it will be nestled between the 2 crocheted pieces.  

Assembly:
I whipstiched up and around one side first.  Then I placed the plastic canvas and polyfil in the middle.  I continued to whipstich around and added more polyfil as needed.  I wanted it to be stuffed but not overly stuffed.  The plastic canvas adds great support to keep the blade from being floppy.  I weaved in remaining tails.

Happy Crocheting...

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work

--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog

  

Chainmail Hat/Helmet

My grandson, Jacob, loves watching movies/TV shows with Knights.  He wants a complete outfit with all of the accessories made for him.  This will take a little time for me, but for now I have made him a "Chainmail Hat/Helmet" and in another post I will add the pattern for the "Sword."

I used worsted weight yarn for this project.  It was quick and easy and fun to make.

This will definitely make for a cute project for a costume for a play, drama, church or Halloween!!!  Here is the LINK to my Knight's Sword Pattern:

Knight's Sword 

Chainmail Hat/Helmet

Chainmail Hat/Helmet Pattern

Size:  Fits 19-21" head circumference

Gauge:  I did not gauge pattern

Materials:

--5.0mm hook

--#4 worsted weight yarn; I used Hobby Lobby's "I Love This Yarn" in Greybeard

--2 stitch markers; I used safety pins

--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:

Ch:  chain

Sl st:  slip stitch

DC:  double crochet

MR:  magic ring

FO:  fasten off

Directions:   

1.  10 DC st into a MR.  Sl st join together to the first st.  Ch1.  (10)

2.  2 DC st into eacn st around.  Sl st join and Ch1.  (20)

3.  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in next st.  Rep this pattern around.  Sl sl join and Ch1.  (30)

4.  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in next 2 st.  Rep this pattern around.  Sl sl join and Ch1.  (40) 

5.  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in next 3 st.  Rep this pattern around.  Sl st join and Ch1.  (50)

6.  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in next 4 st.  Rep this pattern around.  Sl st join and Ch1.  (60)

7.  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in next 5 st.  Rep this pattern around.  Sl st join and Ch1.  (70)

9-14.  1 DC in each st around.  Sl st join and Ch1.  (70)

Now, for stitch marker placement:

1.  Count over and place 1st st marker 18 st over.

2.  Place the 2nd st marker and count over 34 st and place the 2nd stitch marker (so this will make 35 stitches from stitch marker to stitch maker 

1.  Now, join yarn in the first st maker with a sl st and Ch1.  Remove st marker.  DC in same st and continue to crochet in each of the remaining 34 stitches.  Ch1 and turn.  (35)

2-6.  1 DC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (35)

7.  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in each of the next 33 st, and 2 DC in the last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (37)

8.  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in each of the next 35 st, and 2 DC in the last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (39)

9.  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in each of the next 37 st, and 2 DC in the last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (41)

10.  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in each of the next 39 st, and 2 DC in the last st.  FO and weave ends.  (43)

Happy Crocheting...

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work

--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog

9-1-1 Medical Project in the Works...

I hope everyone is having a wonderful Memorial Day Weekend.  I just got back home from a few days at the beach with my son and two of my grandchildren.  It was so much fun and relaxing.  And, I didn't take any yarn/hooks with me.  I was determined to focus on my grand babies and rest....We literally had so much fun that, for a moment, the idea of giving up everything at home and just moving to the beach would be the ultimate life.  And, then Reality slaps you in the face when your cell phone dings with a text message from a bill provider reminding you of your upcoming payment due date.  Ah, but, for a brief time, we get to imagine the beach life for a few days and it's gloriously appreciated.

But, back to reality for me.  My blog posts have been a little slow the past 4-6 weeks.  I have been working on multiple new ideas and designs.  It's taking a little longer than expected.  I do want to go ahead and share how my "medical" project is progressing.

This is a long project that's going to include a lot of cool items.  To date, I have completed a few pieces, which include:
A.  Nurse Apron
B.  Nurse Hat
C.  Blood pressure cuff
D.  Faux arm cast
E.  Surgeon's Hat
F.  Surgeon's Top Scrubs
G.  Surgery Mask
H.  Doctor Bag
I.  Ace Bandage

Here is the Medical Project Collection Link to my Etsy Shop to purchase the Ad-Free PDF version of this entire pattern for $5.00, if you prefer.  My sincere appreciation to anyone and everyone who decides to purchase the PDF pattern.  

A.  NURSE APRON

Size:  Measures approx. 17" long (you can easily adjust this pattern for someone smaller or bigger; I know both of my 2-year-old grandsons have put it on - slightly big on them; and my 4-year old granddaughter - as you can see in the pics, and my 7-year old grandson - a little snug)

Gauge:  12 HDC stitches x 10 rows = 4"

Materials:
--6.0mm hook
--#4 worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn in light blue, white and red)
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
St:  stitch(es)
Sl st:  slip stitch
SC:  single crochet
HDC:  half double crochet
FHDC:  foundation half double crochet
DC:  double crochet
Sk:  skip
Rep:  repeat
MR:  magic ring
FO:  fasten off

Directions:
(The apron is made from the bottom up.)

Apron:
1.  FHDC 40.  Or, ch41, HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (40)
2.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (40)
3-25.  Rep #2.
26-27.  1 DC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (40)
28.  1 DC in each st across.  FO and weave ends.  (40)
29.  Sk 10 st and join yarn with a sl st and Ch1 into st #11.  HDC in same st.  1 HDC in each of the next 19 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (20)
30-42.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (20)
43.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (20)
Border:
44.  1 SC in each st evenly around apron.  Join with sl st to first st and FO.  Weave ends.

Waist Strap (make 2):
1.  FHDC 60.  Or, Ch61, HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (60)
2.  1 HDC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail for attaching.

Repeat for 2nd strap.

Neck Strap:
1.  Join yarn with a sl st and Ch1 in the last st of Row 43 of the Apron.  HDC in same st.  1 HDC in each of the next 2 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
2.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
3-29.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
30.  1 HDC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail for attaching to the opposite side.

Pocket:
1.  FHDC 15.  Or, ch 16, HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (15)
2-9.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (15)
10.  1 HDC in each st across.  FO and leave a long tail for attaching.  (15)

Cross Applique:
Base Circle:
1.  With white yarn, 8 HDC into MR.  Sl st join and Ch1.  (8)
2.  2 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join and Ch1.  (16)
3.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next st.  Rep around.  Sl st join and Ch1.  (24)
4.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 2 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join and Ch1.  (32)
5.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 3 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join and FO.  Leave a long enough tail for attaching.  (40)

Cross:
1.  With red yarn, Ch12.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (11)
2.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (11)
3.  1 SC in each st across.  Don't Ch1 and turn.  (11)
4.  Sl st in 4 st.  Ch1.  SC in next 3 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
5-6.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
7.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail for attaching.  (3)
8.  Join red yarn on opposite side at base ch #5 with a sl st and Ch1.  SC in same.  1 SC in next 2 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
9-10.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
11.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail for attaching.  (3)

Assembly:
1.  Attach each waist strap on the side between Rows 26-28.
2.  Attach the neck strap to the last 3 stitches on the opposite side.
3.  Attach pocket to center bottom portion of apron.  I placed mine in the center at Row 7-16.
4.  Attach Cross to the center of the base circle.  Then attach to the Apron top center, beginning at Row 38. 

***********************************

B.  NURSE HAT:

Size:  Fits a 20" head circumference

Gauge:  I did not gauge hat

Materials:
--6.0 & 4.0mm hooks
--#4 worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn in white and red)
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
St:  stitch(es)
Sl st:  slip stitch
SC:  single crochet
SC2tog:  single crochet 2 stitches together (creates a decrease)
HDC:  half double crochet
FHDC:  foundation half double crochet
FO:  fasten off


Directions:

(If you need your hat smaller or bigger, then adjust your starting ch/st.)

1.  With 6.0mm hook and white yarn, FHDC 45.  Or, Ch46.  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
2-4.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
5.  1 HDC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail to join the ends together with a whipstitch.  Join ends together and make sure you have the right length for your head circumference.
6.  Count over 6 stitches on the right side and join yarn with a sl st and Ch1 in the next st.  SC in same st.  1 SC in each of the next 9 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)
7-8.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)
9.  SC2tog, 1 SC in next 6 st.  SC2tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)
10.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)
11.  SC2tog, 1 SC in next 4 st, SC2tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (6)
12.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (6)
13.  SC evenly around the hat.  FO and weave ends.

Cross:
1.  With red yarn and 4.0mm hook, Ch12.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (11)
2.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (11)
3.  1 SC in each st across.  Don't Ch1 and turn.  (11)
4.  Sl st in 4 st.  Ch1.  SC in next 3 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
5-6.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
7.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail for attaching.  (3)
8.  Join red yarn on opposite side at base ch #5 with a sl st and Ch1.  SC in same.  1 SC in next 2 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
9-10.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
11.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail for attaching.  (3)

Assembly:
1.  Attach Cross to center of hat.

***********************************

C.  BLOOD PRESSURE CUFF

 Size:  Cuff measures approximately 11" in length

Gauge:  I did not gauge pattern

Materials:
--6mm hook
--#4 worsted weight yarn (I used RHSS yarn in gray, black and white)
--3 Velcro dots
--very small amount of polyfil for the pressure reader
--small balloon
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
St:  stitch(es)
Sl st:  slip stitch
SC:  single crochet
SC2tog:  single crochet 2 stitches together (creates a decrease)
Rep:  repeat
MR:  magic ring
FO:  fasten off

Directions:
Cuff:
1.  With gray yarn, Ch16.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (15)
2.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (15)
3-44.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (15)
45.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and weave ends.
46.  Attach the Velcro dots, evenly spaced, vertically, along Row 8-9.  I think, however, a Velcro strip may be a better choice, but, I had dots on hand and used them.

Cuff Center (I used this to attach my cords to):
1.  With black yarn, Ch13.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (12)
2-4.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (12)
5.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail to attach to inside, center of cuff.

Pressure Reader Cord:
1.  With black yarn, Ch4.  Sl st to first ch.  5 SC into ring.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (5)
2.  1 SC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (5)
3-24.  Rep #2.
25.  1 SC in each st around.  FO and weave ends.

Pressure Reader:
(make 2)
1.  With black yarn, 6 SC into MR.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (6)
2.  2 SC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (12)
3.  2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (18)

Face of Pressure Reader:
1.  With white yarn, 6 SC into MR.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (6)
2.  2 SC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and FO.  Leave a long enough tail to attach.  (12)

Assembly of Pressure Reader Cord:
1.   Whipstitch the 2 black Pressure Readers together.  Stuff with a small amount of polyfil before closing up.
2.  Whipstitch Face to Pressure Reader.
3.  Use black yarn and tapestry needle and embroider tick marks around the Face.
4.  Attach top of cord to the black Cuff Center.

Pump Cord:
1.  With black yarn, Ch4.  Sl st to first ch.  5 SC into ring.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (5)
2.  1 SC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (5)
3-24.  Rep #2.
25.  1 SC in each st around.  FO and switch to gray yarn.  Sl st join and Ch1.  (5)
26.  With gray yarn, 1 SC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (5)
27.  1 SC in each st around.  FO and weave ends.  

Pump Screw:
1.  With gray yarn, Ch4.  Sl st to 1st ch.  FO and leave a long enough tail to attach to Round 26 & 27.

Pump:
1.  With black yarn, 6 SC into MR.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (6)
2.  1 SC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (6)
3.  2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (9)
4.  2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next 2 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (12)
5.  1 SC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (12)
6.  2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next 3 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (15)
7-10.  1 SC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (15)
11.  SC2tog, 1 SC in next 3 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (12)
12.  1 SC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (12)
13.  SC2tog, 1 SC in next 2 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (9)
14.  SC2tog, 1 SC in next st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (6)
15.  1 SC in each st around.  FO and weave ends.  Leave the last round open for balloon insertion.
16.  Once you place the small balloon into the pump, then inflate the balloon - not too big but big enough to make it feel like an actual pump.

Assembly of Pump Cord:
1.  Whipstitch first Round of Pump to the Cord end of Round 27.
2.  Attach top of Cord to black Cuff Center. 

***********************************

D.  FAUX ARM CAST

Size: Approximately 10" in diameter and 8" in length

Gauge:  I did not gauge pattern.

Materials:
--6.0mm hook
--#4 worsted weight yarn (I used RHSS yarn in white)
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
St:  stitch(es)
Sl st:  slip stitch
HDC:  half double crochet
Sk:  skip
Rep:  rep
FO:  fasten off

Directions:

(To adjust size decrease or increase your starting chain and increase or decrease your number of rounds)

1.  Ch 28.  Sl st to first ch and Ch1.  HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (28)
2.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (28)
3-17.  Rep #2.
18.  Ch5.  Sk 5 st.  1 HDC in each of the remaining st.  Sl st join to first ch and Ch1.  (23)
19.  5 HDC into the Ch5 space.  1 HDC in each of the remaining st.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (28)
20.  1 HDC in each st around.  FO and weave ends.

***********************************

E.  SURGEON'S HAT

Size:  Fits 19-21" head circumference

Gauge:  I did not gauge pattern.

Materials:
--6.0mm hook
--#4 worsted weight yarn (RHSS yarn in Navy)
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
St:  stitch(es)
Sl st:  slip stitch
HDC:  half double crochet
BLO:  back loops only
Rep:  repeat
MR:  magic ring
FO:  fasten off

Directions:
1.  10 HDC into MR.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (10)
2.  2 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (20)
3.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (30)
4.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 2 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (40)
5.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 3 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (50)
6.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 4 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (60)
7.  1 HDC in the BLO of each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (60)
8.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (60)
9-11.  Rep #8.
12.  1 HDC in the first 50 st around.  Ch1 and turn.  (50)
13.  1 HDC in each st around.  Ch1 and turn.  (50)
14.  1 HDC in each st around.  Ch1 and turn.  (50)
15.  1 HDC in each st around.  (50)
16.  Ch41.  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across.  FO and weave ends.  (40)
17.  Join yarn on opposite side in last stitch of round 15.  Ch41.  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across.  FO and weave ends.  (40)

Simple Surgeon's Hat that kids will enjoy wearing...

***********************************

F.  SURGEON'S TOP SCRUBS

  Size:  My grandson, Jacob, is 7 and wears a size 12/14; this is like a youth small/medium.  I used one of his t-shirts as a guide.  

Gauge:  12 HDC stitches x 10 rows = 4"

Materials:
--6.0mm hook
--#4 worsted weight yarn (RHSS yarn in Navy)
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
St:  stitch(es)
Sl st:  slip stitch
HDC:  half double crochet
FHDC:  foundation half double crochet
HDC2tog:  half double crochet 2 stitches together (creates a decrease)
FPHDC:  front post half double crochet
BPHDC:  back post half double crochet
Rep:  rep
FO:  fasten off

Directions:

(The Scrub Top is made in 2 panels, whipstitched together, then sleeves and neck edging are added.  To make for a smaller child, use the same principle as my pattern, just decrease the number of your starting chain and number of repeat rows.  Then, continue to decrease by 1 stitch per row to form your V-shape until you get your desired length)

Front Panel:
1.  FHDC 45.  Or, Ch46, HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
2.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
3-40.  Rep #2.
Forming the V-neck:
41.  1 HDC in the next 22 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (22)
42.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 20 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (21)
43.  1 HDC in next 19 st, HDC2tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (20)
44.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 18 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (19)
45.  1 HDC in next 17 st, HDC2tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (18)
46.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 16 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (17)
47.  1 HDC in next 15 st, HDC2 tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (16)
48.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 14 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (15)
49.  1 HDC in next 13 st, HDC2tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (14)
50.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 12 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (13)
51.  1 HDC in next 11 st, HDC2tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (12)
52.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 10 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (11)
53.  1 HDC in next 9 st, HDC2tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)
54-56.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)
57.  1 HDC in each st across.  FO and weave ends.

Rep #41-57 on opposite side.

Back Panel:
1.  FHDC 45.  Or, Ch46, HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
2.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
3-52.  Rep #2.
Forming the Shoulder:
53.  1 HDC in the next 10 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)
54-56.  Rep #53.
57.  1 HDC in each st across.  FO and leave a long tail for attaching.  (10)

Rep #53-57 on opposite side.

Assembly:
1.  Place right sides together and whipstitch across the shoulders on each side.
2.  For the sides, I counted from bottom, up to Row 36.  I then whipstitched sides from Row 36 down.

Neck Edging:
1.  Join yarn in any stitch of Row 57 in the back.  Sl st join and Ch1.  SC in same.  Then, 1 SC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.
2-4.  1 SC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.
5.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch2.
6.  The ch2 counts as your first st (FPHDC), BPHDC in next st.  Alternate between FPHDC, then BPHDC around.  Sl st join to the top of the ch2 and FO.  Weave ends.

***Note:  if you are not familiar with post stitches, then you can opt to complete Round 6 with HDC stitches***

Sleeves:
1.  Sl st join and Ch1 at the bottom of the opening.  HDC in same.  Evenly HDC in each st around.
2.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.
3-5.  Rep #2.
6.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and FO.  Weave ends.

Repeat on opposite side for second sleeve.

***********************************

G.  SURGERY MASK

Size: Fits most kids; you may have to adjust the end straps for smaller children

Gauge:  I did not gauge pattern.

Materials:
--6.0mm hook
--#4 worsted weight yarn (I used RHSS yarn in white)
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
SC:  single crochet
HDC:  half double crochet
BLO:  back loops only
Rep:  repeat
FO:  fasten off

Directions:
1.  Ch 21, HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (20)
2.  Working in the BLO, HDC in the first st, SC in the next st.  Rep across.  Ch1 and turn.  (20)
3.  Working in the BLO, SC in the first st, HDC in the next st.  Rep across.  Ch1 and turn.  (20)
4.  Rep #2
5.  Rep #3
6.  Rep #2
7.  Rep #3
8.  Rep #2
9.  Rep #3
10.  Rep #2
11.  Rep #3
12.  1 HDC in both loops of each st across.  (20)
13.  Ch24 and sl st join to the last st on the same side of the first Row.  This makes the first ear strap.  FO and weave ends.  Rep on opposite side.

If you are making this for a smaller child:
1.  You may need to start with a smaller number of chains (and decrease the number of rows) so that the mask isn't as long/wide
2.  You may need to make a smaller number of chains for the ear straps.

***********************************

H.  DOCTOR BAG:

Size:  Approximately 8 1/2" in length and 9 1/2" in width

Gauge:  I did not gauge pattern.

Materials:
--6.0mm hook
--#4 worsted weight yarn (RHSS yarn in black and red)
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
St:  stitch(es)
Sl st:  slip stitch
SC:  single crochet
HDC:  half double crochet
BLO:  back loops only
FO:  fasten off

Directions:
Bag:
1.  Ch25.  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and next 22 st.  3 HDC in last st.  Rotate to work on opposite side of base ch.  HDC in next 22 ch.  2 HDC in last ch.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (50)
2.  1 HDC in the first 24 st.  3 HDC in next st.  1 HDC in the next 24 st.  2 HDC in last st.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (53)
3.  1 HDC in the first 25 st.  3 HDC in next st.  1 HDC in the next 26 st.  2 HDC in last st.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (56)
4.  1 HDC in the first 26 st.  3 HDC in next st.  1 HDC in the next 28 st.  2 HDC in last st.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (59)
5.   This round only is worked in BLO.  1 HDC in BLO of each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (59)
6.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (59)
7-20.  Rep #6.
21.  1 sl st in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and FO.  Weave ends.

Handles (make 2):
1.  Ch29.  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (28)
2-3.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (28)
4.  1 HDC in each st across.  FO and leave a long tail.
5.  Fold handle in half, horizontally and whipstitch Row 1 to Row 4.


Cross:
1.  With red yarn, Ch12.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (11)
2.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (11)
3.  1 SC in each st across.  Don't Ch1 and turn.  (11)
4.  Sl st in 4 st.  Ch1.  SC in next 3 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
5-6.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
7.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail for attaching.  (3)
8.  Join red yarn on opposite side at base ch #5 with a sl st and Ch1.  SC in same.  1 SC in next 2 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
9-10.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
11.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail for attaching.  (3)

Assembly:
1.  Attach each handle to the front center and back center.
2.  Attach Cross to front center.

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I.  ACE BANDAGE: 

Size: Approx 13 1/2" long

Gauge:  I did not gauge pattern.

Materials:
--4.0mm hook
--#4 worsted weight yarn (I used RHSS yarn in white and red)
--2 Velcro dots
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
St:  stitch(es)
Sl st:  slip stitch
SC:  single crochet
FO:  fasten off


Directions:

(If you want a longer or wider Ace Bandage, then just increase your starting chain number and complete additional rows)

1.  With white yarn, Ch51.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  FO and switch to red yarn.  Ch1 and turn.  (50)
2.  With red yarn, sl st in each st across.  FO and switch back to white yarn.  Ch1 and turn.  (50)
3.  With white yarn, 1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (50)
4-7.  Rep #3.
8.  With white yarn, 1 SC in each st across.  FO and switch to red yarn.  Ch1 and turn.
9.  With red yarn, sl st in each st across.  FO and switch back to white yarn.  Ch1 and turn.  (50)
10.  With white yarn, 1 SC in each st across.  FO and weave ends.

I placed 2 Velcro dots on one end at Row 2 and Row 8.  The Velcro seems to stick to the yarn itself fairly well.

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Be sure to be on the look out for more patterns to come with my "Medical Project" collection.  I still have to complete:
1.  Stethoscope
2.  Needle
3.  Thermometer
4.  Band-Aid(s)5.  Hammer (for reflex checks)
6.  Ear/Nose scope
7.  Rx bottle

And, anything else that might strike me along the way, while I continue to watch Grey's Anatomy on Netflix...

Happy Crocheting...

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work

--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog