Reversible Hat

I love versatility, especially with craft projects.  I'm making a hat and diaper cover set to match the WV Baby Blanket I just completed.  So, I decided to make the hat reversible with pompoms on each side.  It's made completely in one piece - so not much weaving at all.

Quick, easy, functional and sure to keep a baby's head toasty warm come this fall and winter.

I used a 5.0mm hook and RHSS yarn in Soft Navy and Gold to complete.  It's double the warmth for certain.

What do you all think?

Reversible Hat

Size:  

Pattern below is for 1-3 year olds (18" head circumference)

Alternate sizes:

1.  To make a Newborn size (14" head circumference), stop increase rounds at 40 stitches, then complete 5-6 repeat rounds before switching yarn color and repeating pattern in reverse.

2.  To make for a 3 month - 6 month (15 1/2" head circumference), stop increase rounds at 48 stitches, then complete 6-7 repeat rounds before switching yarn color and repeating pattern in reverse.

3.  To make for 3 - 5 year olds (19" - 20" head circumference), stop increase rounds at 64 stitches, then complete 8-9 repeat rounds before switching yarn color and repeating pattern in reverse.

4.  To make additional sizes, just make fewer or more increase rounds to get the head circumference you need.

How to determine the number of stitches needed for your head size:

1.  Use a tape measure, and measure around your head in inches to get your size;

2.  Divide that number by 3.14.  The number you get will determine how many inches wide your circle needs to be before you stop increasing the number of stitches in each round.   If you do not have a tape measure readily available, you can go to Pinterest and do a head circumference chart search.  This will bring up charts/tables that will give you the approximate age, head circumference size and length you need to make your hat.

Materials:

--5.0mm hook

--RHSS yarn in Soft Navy and Gold (or your colors of choice)

--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:

Ch:  chain

Sl st:  slip stitch

St:  stitch(es)

HDC:  half double crochet

HDC2tog:  half double crochet 2 stitches together (creates a decrease)

MR:  magic ring

Rep:  repeat

FO:  fasten off

Special Stitch:

1.  HDC2tog:  yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and come back through the stitch, yarn over and insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and come back through the stitch, yarn over and pull all 5 loops on the hook through; you have created a decrease stitch.

Special Note:

1.  This Reversible Hat is ALL made in one piece.

2.  This hat can be worked in the round (if so, then use a stitch marker to keep track of starting/ending stitch) or you can slip stitch join and chain 1.

Directions:

1.  With Soft Navy yarn, 8 HDC into MR.  Pull tail to tighten.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (8)

2.  2 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (16)

3.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (24)

4.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 2 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (32)

5.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 3 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (40)

6.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 4 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (48)

7.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 5 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (56)

8-14.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  At the end of Round 14, FO and weave ends.  (56)

15.  Join Gold yarn in any stitch with a sl st and Ch1.  HDC in same st and in every stitch around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (56)

16-22.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (56)

23.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 5 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (48)

24.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 4 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (40)

25.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 3 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (32)

26.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 2 st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (24)

27.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next st.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.  (16)

28.  HDC2tog.  Rep around.  Sl st join to first st and FO.  Leave a long tail to weave in and out of the last row to close the hole.  (8)

Pompoms:

1.  I held Navy and Gold strands together and wrapped 30 times around 3 fingers.  Cut and tied in the center.  Then trimmed ends and rubbed together with the palms of my hands to shape.

 

To wear:

1.  Push one color inside the other color and your hat is ready to wear - with DOUBLE the WARMTH.

2.  Turn inside out, to wear the contrasting color. 

Happy Crocheting...

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work
--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog

Sugarplum Baby Blanket

I'm in love with the Sugarplum Stripe, Periwinkle and White Yarn I used for this baby blanket.  The color combination is so, so pretty and, well, just girly.

I used a 6.0mm hook and "I Love This Yarn" from Hobby Lobby to complete this project.  The yarn is a #4 worsted weight yarn.  

This blanket was designed using single crochet and half double crochet crossed over stitches.  

The completed blanket measures approximately 36" x 32".  And, I'm sure this blanket is going to keep a little baby girl super warm come this fall...

Sugarplum Baby Blanket 

Size:  Approx. 36" x 32"

Materials:

--6.0mm hook

--#4 worsted weight yarn - I used Hobby Lobby's, I Love This Yarn, in Sugarplum Stripe, Periwinkle and White (2 skeins of Sugarplum and 1 each of Periwinkle and White)

--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:

Ch:  chain

Sl st:  slip stitch

St:  stitch(es)

SC:  single crochet

HDC:  half double crochet

Rep:  repeat

FO:  fasten off

Directions:

For this blanket, I started out working rows with the Sugarplum Stripe.  When I switched to Periwinkle, I started working around all four sides, placing 3 stitches in each corner.  

Special Stitch:  

1.  HDC Crossover - Skip stitch, HDC in next st.  Then, go back to the skipped stitch and place an HDC stitch.  

1.  With Sugarplum Stripe, Ch 49.   HDC in 2nd ch from hook.  Then, skip the next ch.  HDC in the following ch.  Continue to skip the next ch, place the HDC stitch in following ch, then go back to the skipped ch and place the HDC stitch.  Rep across.  HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (48)

2-26.  HDC in first st.  *Sk next st, HDC in following st.  Then, HDC in skipped st.* Rep from * to * across.  HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  At the end of Row 26, FO and weave ends.  (48)

27.  Join Periwinkle yarn in any stitch with a sl st and ch1.  SC in same st.  SC in each st evenly around all 4 sides, placing 3 SC st in each corner.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.

28-32.  SC in each st around, placing 3 SC st in each corner.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1. At the end of Round 32, FO and weave ends.

33.  Join White yarn in any stitch with a sl st and ch1.  HDC in first st.  Now, you will work HDC Crossover around all 4 sides, placing 3 HDC stitches in each corner.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.

34-36.  Rep # 33.  At the end of Round 36, FO and weave ends.

37.  Join Sugarplum Stripe in any stitch with a sl st and Ch1.  SC in same st.  SC in each st evenly around all 4 sides, placing 3 SC st in each corner.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.

38-41.  Rep #37.  At the end of Round 41, FO and weave ends.

42.  Join Periwinkle yarn in any stitch with a sl st and Ch1.  HDC in first st.  Now, you will work HDC Crossover around all 4 sides, placing 3 HDC stitches in each corner.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.

43-47.  Rep #42.  At the end of Round 47, FO and weave ends.

48.  Join White yarn in any stitch with a sl st and ch1.  SC in same st.  SC in each st evenly around all 4 sides, placing 3 SC st in each corner.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.

49-54.  Rep #48.  At the end of Round 48, FO and weave ends.

55.  Join Sugarplum Stripe yarn in any stitch with a sl st and Ch1.  HDC in first st.  Now, you will work HDC Crossover around all 4 sides, placing 3 HDC stitches in each corner.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.

56-57.  Rep #55.  At the end of Round 57, FO and weave ends.

And, that's it for this super soft and "girly" baby blanket...

Happy Crocheting...

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work 

--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog

"Wild Like The Wind" Throw Blanket

A few weeks ago, I bought this yarn, Wild Flower Winds, at Hobby Lobby on clearance sale for a $1.24 per skein (regular $3.99 per skein). Each skein has 252 yards.  I loved the color combo and decided to make a throw blanket.  I used 5 skeins.

This was a fun and easy pattern design, even for a beginner.  The finished blanket measures approximately 38" x 50".  You may use a different #4 worsted weight yarn brand, just note that the size may vary some.

"Wild Like The Wind" Throw Blanket

Size:  approximately 38" x 50"

Materials:
--6.0 mm hook
--(5) skeins of Wild Flower Winds Yarn (#4 worsted weight yarn); 252 yds/skein
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
Sl st:  slip stitch
St:  stitch
SC:  single crochet
HDC:  half double crochet
Sk:  skip
Rep:  repeat
FO:  fasten off

Directions:
1.  FHDC 150.  Or, Ch151.  HDC in 2nd ch and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (150)
2.  HDC across.  Ch1 and turn.  (150)
3-7. Rep #2.
8.  HDC in first st.  *Ch2, Sk 2.  HDC in next st.*  Rep across.  Ch1 and turn.
9.  HDC in first st.  *2 HDC in Ch2 space.  HDC next st.* Rep across.  Ch1 and turn.
10-78.  Rep #8 and #9.
79-85.  Rep #2.
86-88.  SC evenly around blanket.  FO and weave ends.                            

Happy Crocheting...

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work 

--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog

Simple Summertime Cover-Up...

Simple Summertime Cover-Up Pattern

I made this “Simple Summertime Cover-Up” using less than 1 cone of Sugar ‘n Cream cotton yarn in red and a 6.0mm hook. I bought this yarn on clearance sale at Hobby Lobby for $3.49 (regular priced at 13.99).  I still have at least 200 yards left on the cone.

I made this using a mesh stitch. I made a back panel and 2 front panels, whipstitched the pieces together and voila- it was done. Quick and easy. The only stitch knowledge required is:  chains and half double crochet.

Size:  It's made in Large (Lg) to fit me, so it would be a loose fit on a small/medium-sized person; but that's okay for beachwear...

Materials:
--6.0mm hook
--1 Sugar 'n Cream Cotton Yarn Cone (I used the color Red)
--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch:  chain
Sl St:  slip stitch
St:  stitch(es)
HDC:  half double crochet
Sk:  skip
Rep:  repeat
FO:  fasten off

Directions:

Back Panel:
(Worked from bottom up)
1.  Start with an even number of chains.  I started with 82 for the back panel.  (I chained long enough to make it loose and roomy for my backside and sides.)  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (81)
2-5.  HDC in each st across.  Ch 1 and turn.  (81)
6.  HDC in 1st st.  *Ch 5, sk 3 st, HDC in next st.*  Rep across from * to. *  HDC in last st.  Ch 1 and turn.
7.  HDC in 1st st.  Ch 2 and make an HDC st in the first Ch 5 of previous row.  Ch 5.  HDC in next Ch 5 of previous row.  Rep across.  After last HDC st in the Ch 5 of previous row, you will then Ch 2 and HDC in last st.  Ch 1 and turn.
8-33.  Repeat rows 6 and 7.
Top border:
34.  To finish off, HDC evenly across.  Ch 1 and turn.  (81)
35.  HDC across.  Fasten off and weave ends.  (81)

Front Panels:
(make 2)
1.  I started with an even number of chains.  I started with 36.  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch 1 and turn.  (35)
2-5.  HDC in each st across.  Ch 1 and turn.  (35)
6.  HDC in 1st st.  *Ch 5, sk 3 st, HDC in next st.*  Rep across from * to. *  HDC in last st.  Ch 1 and turn.
7.  HDC in 1st st.  Ch 2 and make an HDC st in the 1st Ch 5 of previous row.  Ch 5.  HDC in next Ch 5 of previous row.  Rep across.  After last HDC st in the Ch 5 of previous row, you will then Ch 2 and HDC in last st.  Ch 1 and turn.
8-33.  Repeat rows 6 and 7.
Top border:
34.  To finish off, HDC evenly across.  Ch 1 and turn.  (35)
35.  HDC across.  Fasten off and weave ends. (35)

To assemble:
1.  I whipstitched shoulder seams with right sides facing.
2.  I then whipstitched sides together with right sides facing.  I left a large opening at the top sides (approx 9") for my arms.  You can adjust this to a smaller opening, if so desired. 

I hope you will enjoy/like this easy pattern.  Please feel free to email/comment with any questions.

 

 

 

Happy Crocheting 

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work 

--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog

Yarn, Yarn — and more Yarn!!!

Okay, folks, if you haven’t visited your local Hobby Lobby Store lately, then you need to go there NOW!!!  They have unbeatable clearance prices right now on yarn.

I bought 51 skeins of acrylic, cotton, wool, bulky/chunky yarn, 3 Sugars ‘n Creme and 2 gorgeous Sugarwheels for a whopping total of $96.63 after tax.  You cannot beat this deal anywhere. Skeins were priced between $1.12 - $1.49. The cones were $3.49. Now, the Sugarwheel - well, I used 40% off coupon. It wasn’t clearanced yet but the shades of green were so gorgeous that I couldn’t pass it up...lol.

I’m so glad I saved my gift cards from Christmas to use now!!!  I really got a bang for my buck, so to speak.

I’m not affiliated with Hobby Lobby but I do know an awesome deal when I see one. Plus, I love working with their yarns.   Check out pics below!!!

Happy Crocheting...

Knight's Tunic Top

In follow-up to the Knight's Sword and Chainmail Hat/Helmet I designed, I decided to create this Knight's Tunic Top for my grandson, Jacob.  What little boy doesn't want to be a Knight?  I know I love watching shows/movies about times of past with knights and kings.

This pattern was designed to be beginner-friendly for a crochet newbie, using Red Heart Super Saver yarn and a 6.0mm hook.

Knight's Tunic Top

Size:  Youth Small/Medium

Materials:

--4.0 (for the Fleur-de-lis) and 6.0mm hooks 

--Red Heart Super Saver yarn in Navy (2 skeins) and white (1 skein)

--4 small buttons for side flaps

--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:

Ch:  chain

St:  stitch(es)

Sl st:  slip stitch

SC:  single crochet

HDC:  half double crochet 

HDC2tog:  half double crochet 2 stitches together

FHDC:  foundation half double crochet

Rep:  repeat

Sk:  skip

FO:  fasten off 

Picot:  Chain 3 and slip stitch into the first chain

Directions:

The tunic is made in one piece, a rectangular-shape.  The neck opening is made at the halfway mark between the front and back.  Then, you make 4 side flaps and attach (2 flaps to each side).

Tunic:
1.  With Navy yarn and 6.0mm hook, I started with FHDC 45.  Or, you could chain 46, HDC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn. (45)
 2.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
3-43.  Rep #2.
44.  1 HDC in each of the first 9 st.  Ch27, Sk 27, 1 HDC in each of the last 9 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (18 HDC, 27 Ch)
45.  1 HDC in each of the first 9 st.  27 HDC in the ch space.  1 HDC in each of the last 9 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (45)
46-87.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  At the end of Row 87, FO and weave ends.

Border:
1.  With white yarn, join in any st and Ch1.  HDC in same st.  HDC evenly around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.
2.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join and FO.  Re-join Navy yarn.
3.  1 HDC in each st around.  Sl st join to first st and Ch1.
4.  Rep #3.  FO and weave ends.

Bottom Tabs:
The bottom tabs are made for the front panel and the back panel.  4 tabs on each side.

1.  Join Navy yarn in first st of the first row and Ch1.  HDC in same st and into the next 7 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)
2-6.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  After you complete the 6th Row, FO and weave ends.  (8)

Rep steps 1-6 evenly across the bottom to make 4 tabs.  Then, rep on the back side, using the last row you made.


Side Flaps (make 4):
1.  With Navy yarn and 6.0mm hook, Ch4.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
2-11.  1 SC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (3)
12.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and leave a tail for attaching 1 side to the side back panel.

Emblem:
1.  With White yarn and 6.0mm hook, Ch3.  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and next ch.  Ch1 and turn.  (2)
2.  2 HDC in each st.  Ch1 and turn.  (4)
3.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 2 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (6)
4.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 4 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)
5.   2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 6 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)
6.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 8 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (12)
7.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 10 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (14)
8.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in next 12 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (16)
9-11.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (16)
12.  HDC2tog, 1 HDC in next 12 st, HDC2tog.  FO and weave ends.  (14)
13.  With Navy yarn, join yarn and Ch1.  SC in same st.  SC evenly around.  FO and leave a long tail for attaching.

Fleur-di-lis:
Vertical Portion:
1.  With Navy yarn and 4.0mm hook, Ch15.  SC in 2nd ch from hook and into each of the next 10 ch.  Picot.  1 SC in each of the next 2 ch.  3 SC in last ch.  Rotate and work on the opposite side of the base chain.  1 SC in each of the first 3 ch.  Picot.  1 SC in each of the next 9 ch.  2 SC in last ch.  FO and leave a long tail for attaching to the emblem.

For the Side:
1.  Ch7.  1 SC in 2nd ch from hook and across.  Picot.  1 SC in each st across.  FO and leave a long enough tail to attach on the side of the Vertical Portion.

Rep for the second side.

Neckline Border:
1.  With White yarn and 6.0mm hook, I joined yarn with a sl st and Ch1 in the back right corner.  HDC in same st and evenly across the back portion.  At the corner, HDC2tog, then HDC across the front.  HDC2tog at the corner.  Continue to HDC until the last st and then sl st join to the first st and Ch1.
2.   HDC in each st across the back portion.  At the corner, HDC2tog, then HDC in each st across.  HDC2tog in the corner.  Continue to HDC until the last st and then sl st join to the first st and FO.  Weave ends.
3.  I used the tapestry needle and a piece of white yarn, and weaved it in and out of the center, front HDC st to create a dip (V).  FO and weaved ends.

Assembly:
1.  Attach 2 buttons evenly spaced out on the front sides of the tunic for side flap closure
2.  Attach the Fleur-di-lis to the emblem.  Then attach emblem to front center of the tunic.

To adjust size:
1.  For a 3T-4T size, start with a FHDC 30 or Ch31 and HDC across.  (30)
2-30.  1 HDC in each st across.  (30)
31.  1 HDC in each of the first 10 st.  Ch10, Sk 10, 1 HDC in each of the last 10 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (20 HDC, 10 Ch)
32.  1 HDC in each of the first 10 st.  10 HDC in the ch space.  1 HDC in each of the last 10 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (30)
33-62.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  At the end of Row 63 FO and weave ends.  (30)

Complete remainder of Tunic same as above.

Please note:
1.  This pattern has not been tested.  It was designed and made by me for my grandchildren.
2.  As a good rule of thumb, please check for size as you go to make sure you get the measurement you want for your child.
3.  If you have any questions, please feel free to comment or email me and I would be glad to help in any way that I can.

Enjoy!!!

Happy Crocheting 

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work

--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog

Knight's Sword

Hitting the beach one weekend and then the mountains the following weekend has motivated and regenerated my creativity!!!  I have been playing around with several different projects with the warmer weather in full force here in North Carolina.  My brain has been all over the place - from one spectrum to the other with projects I've started...lol.  So, I will be getting my blog updated with all the new patterns I've already completed, as well as, update blog posts that I may not have added the pattern(s) to yet.

Today, I want to share my pattern for a "Knight's Sword."  I made this to compliment the Knight's Chainmail Hat/Helmet that I added yesterday.  Here is the LINK for this pattern:

Chainmail Helmet 

I plan to make a few additional items to complete my "Knight" collection.  Everything will be made and sized for my 7-year-old grandson, Jacob.  He wants a complete costume made - so this will be a great collection to have for Halloween, birthday parties or to just play dress-up around the house.  

Knight's Sword

Knight's Sword Pattern

Size:  approx 18" long

Gauge:  I did not gauge

Materials:

--5.0mm hook

--#4 worsted weight yarn in your color(s) of choice (I used grey and light brown)

--1 sheet of plastic canvas

--small amount of polyfil

--tapestry needle for weaving

U.S. Stitch Abbreviations:

Ch:  chain

St:  stitch(es)

Sl st:  slip stitch

HDC:  half double crochet

HDC2tog:  half double crochet 2 stitches together (creates a decrease)

FO:  fasten off

Directions:

This pattern is made using double-stranded yarn.  Just simply hold 2 strands together while you work the pattern.

The Blade/Hilt is made in one piece.  You will need to repeat the pattern 2 times and then whipstitch the 2 pieces together to make the sword.

1.  Starting with grey yarn, double-stranded, Ch3.  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and next ch.  Ch1 and turn.  (2)

2.  2 HDC in each st.  Ch1 and turn.  (4)

3.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (6)

4.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in each of the next 4 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)

5.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in each of the next 6 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)

6.  2 HDC in first st, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 st, 2 HDC in last st.  Ch1 and turn.  (12)

7-10.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (12)

11.   HDC2tog, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 st, HDC2tog.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)

12-29.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (10)

30.  1 HDC in each st across.  FO and weave ends.  

31.  Before joining your second color to Row 30 to make the hilt, you will first make a Ch5.  1 HDC in the 2nd ch from the hook.  1 HDC in each of the next 3 ch.  Now, sl st join 2nd color to the last stitch of Row 30 on the right end.  1 HDC in same st.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch5.  1 HDC in 2nd ch from the hook.  1 HDC in each of the next 3 ch.  Turn.  Sl st back across the 4 HDC st you just made.  Ch1 and turn.  (18)

32.  1 HDC in each of the first 14 st.  Now, before continuing with the last 4 HDC st across, you will want to turn up the first 4 HDC st you made in Row 31 and work the remaining HDC st across into the base ch you made in Row 31.  Ch1 and turn.  (18)

33.  1 HDC in each st across.  Do not Ch1 and turn.  (18)

34.  Sl st in the first 5 st.  Ch1.  HDC in the next 8 st.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)

35-41.  1 HDC in each st across.  Ch1 and turn.  (8)

42.  1 HDC in each st across.  FO and leave a long tail.  

Repeat to make 2nd piece.  

Now, you will want to cut a piece of plastic canvas in the shape of the blade portion.  Cut it smaller than the actual crocheted piece since it will be nestled between the 2 crocheted pieces.  

Assembly:
I whipstiched up and around one side first.  Then I placed the plastic canvas and polyfil in the middle.  I continued to whipstich around and added more polyfil as needed.  I wanted it to be stuffed but not overly stuffed.  The plastic canvas adds great support to keep the blade from being floppy.  I weaved in remaining tails.

Happy Crocheting...

Legal:

--don't use/claim my design as your own

--don't use/claim my pics as your own

--okay to make and sale your finished work

--don't share my pattern electronically or in print format (without prior consent) but provide a link to my blog